What's in a Wave?

OBJECTIVE
Language Arts Goal: To draw conclusions and make inferences based on explicit and implicit information in a reading passage
Science Goal: To gain understanding of the relationship between the force of wind and its effect on the ocean
MATERIALS
- 9"x12" baking pan
- water
- blue food coloring
- Lesson Activity 3: What's in a Wave? (PDF)
- pen or pencil
DIRECTIONS
- Ask students: Did you know surfers use science to find the best waves? To find out how, first we must understand how waves are formed in the ocean.
- Set a 9"x12" baking pan on a table at the front of the classroom. Fill the pan about half-way with water and add a few drops of blue food coloring. Invite students to gather around. Have a volunteer blow lightly across the surface of the water. Tell students that the ripple effect they see is caused by air moving the tiny water molecules forward and pushing them into the molecules that are in front of them. Those molecules, in turn, crash into the ones in front of them, and so on.
- Have students return to their seats. Distribute copies of Lesson Activity 3: What's in a Wave? (PDF). Ask students: What force might make the same effect in the ocean? To find out, have students read "What's in a Wave?" on their own and answer the questions using critical thinking skills.
- Tell students that surf forecasting is a science much like weather forecasting. Surf forecasters use technology to find storms in the ocean and predict where and when the next big waves will occur.
Wrap Up:
As a class, read "The Big Z's Gnarly Surf Science Facts."
Student Reproducible 3 Answer Key:
- Wind.
- A swell is created when choppy waves combine and become smoother.
- They check the surf forecast.
- Answers will vary. Student should demonstrate understanding of how ocean waves are formed.






